Mount Makalu Expedition

Duration: 46 Days

Best Season: Autumn, Spring

Accommodation: Camping

Grade: Challenging

Altitude: 8,463m / 27,820ft


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Mount Makalu is a true mountaineering challenge, standing at a towering 8,463 meters (27,820ft) tall as the fifth highest mountain in the world. Located in the Mahalangur Himal, 19 km north-east of Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga on the Nepal-Tibet border, Makalu is an isolated peak that presents a striking pyramid-like shape with sharp ridges on all four sides.

Our Mount Makalu Expedition begins with a domestic flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, where you will have the opportunity to take in the incredible mountain scenery as you fly. After arriving at Tumlingtar airport, we will start our trek above the ARUN River valley past Sherpa settlements and forests, with views of Mount Chamlang Himalaya in the distance. We will eventually reach the base of the West Face at 5,800m, where we will begin our ascent.

The route we will take is a less-trodden, isolated path that leads to the beautiful Barun valley. As we make our way to Makalu Base Camp at 4,800m, the terrain becomes rocky with loose scree. Here, we will spend two nights to acclimatize and make a side excursion to the high grazing areas at the top of the Barun Glacier. From the base camp, we will enjoy spectacular views of Mount Everest (8,850m), Mount Lhotse (8,516m), Mount Makalu (8,463m), Mount Chamlang (7,319m), and Mount Baruntse (7,220m).

From the base camp, we will walk for seven hours over the moraine and boulder fields of the Barun Glacier until we reach Advanced Base Camp at 5,700m (ABC). This is where we will spend most of our time, as we will ascend a steep ice-snow wall with fixed lines to reach Camp I. At Camp I, we will spend two nights to make an acclimatization trip across the easy glacier to Camp II, 6,600m which is a small, flat, sheltered area nearby some ice walls.

Beyond Camp II, the climb becomes technical with open snow slopes that can be deep and prone to avalanches. There is also a mixed section of rock and blue ice which leads up to the Makalu La at 7,450m. Before reaching Camp III at 7,400m, we will have to walk 200 meters on flat terrain covered with ice. From Camp III, it will take us just 3 hours to reach Camp IV at 7,600m, which is the last spot for fixing a camp below the summit.


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Other Nepal Expeditions over 8,000m

Mount Everest & Lhotse Combined Expedition | Mount Annapurna I Expedition | Mount Manaslu Expedition | Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition | Mount Lhotse Expedition | Mount Kanchenjunga Expedition | Mount Everest (South) Expedition 


Other Nepal Expeditions over 7,000m

Mount Muztagh Ata Expedition | Mount Nuptse Expedition | Mount Pumori Expedition | Mount Himlung Himal Expedition | Mount Baruntse Expedition


Other Nepal Expeditions over 6,000m

Mount Ama Dablam Expedition