Mount Muztagh Ata Expedition
Duration: 25 Days
Best Season: June to July
Accommodation: Hotel, Camp
Grade: Challenging
Altitude: 7,546m / 24,757.22ft
Mount Muztagh Ata is an exciting and challenging peak to climb and ski, located in the Pamirs of Xinjiang Province in China near K2. At 7,546m, it is considered one of the easiest and safest peaks of its height in the world. The mountain is non-technical, with nothing over a 30-degree gradient, making it accessible to confident climbers.
The expedition begins with a traditional route from Tashgergan, taking us to Kashgar. From there, we drive to Base Camp where our Sherpa guides provide valuable advice for climbing and training. At Base Camp, team members will undergo a process of acclimatization and strengthen the body in preparation for the climb. We provide comfortable dining tents with tables and chairs for delicious meals.
From Base Camp, we proceed to Camp 1 at 5,400m, located just above the snow line. The trail is mainly composed of loose stones, and we recommend snow-free leather walking boots with good ankle support for above camp 1. Camp 2 at 6,170m is located on a nearly flat snow plateau, and Camp 3 at 6,800m involves traversing some of the gentlest slopes on the mountain, often below 10 degrees.
As we move up the mountain, we take safety precautions such as traveling as a roped team and using bamboo marker wands to avoid crevasses. The ascent can be challenging psychologically, as we reach high points, knowing we will have to go back down before attempting the summit. On rest days, we encourage team members to concentrate on recovering, eating, and drinking, and to relax, read, listen to music, and visit other teams.
On the summit attempt, we head out of camp 3 early, roped together with snowshoes. It takes 6 to 8 hours to reach the summit from camp 3. The route is big and wide with very few crevasses, and we will continue to be roped-up for safety. Upon reaching the summit, you can enjoy fantastic views in every direction towards Pakistan and Rakaposhi, into the K2 area, across the Tien Shan range, and even into Afghanistan. The best time to climb Muztagh Ata Peak is June-July, a time when the snow conditions are good, the mountain is not too "melted-out," and the route is relatively pristine and clean.
Other Nepal Expeditions over 8,000m
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Other Nepal Expeditions over 7,000m
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Other Nepal Expeditions over 6,000m